Friday, November 25, 2011

Thoughts on Teaching & a Jordanian Thanksgiving

I have a mishmash to write.  Since I got back from Turkey, it's been pretty busy here as we get ready for the exam period.  I also had a pretty serious bout of food poisoning which had me unable to walk (without fainting) for about 48 hrs, but I'm almost fully recovered from that now. 

I haven't written much about teaching on here. That has been purposeful because I want to keep most of what goes on in my classroom private (or at least out of the blogsphere).  It's my first year teaching, so I don't know what it would be like to teach in the United States.  But teaching here is not easy, and some of the causes are cultural and linguistic.  I am having to adjust to a system that, in some ways, is very foreign and non-intuitive to me.  Here are some ways and examples of how my experience has been interesting:

1. 95% of my students speak English as a second language.  Many are fluent in English, but some are not.  There are countless language and cultural communication misunderstandings in my classroom between myself and my students.  Although we've gotten better at communicating with each other, I know that they miss (some more than others) some of what I say about physics every day simply because of a language barrier.  Even the students who are fluent will write certain sentences in their lab reports that highlight them as ESL students and make it hard for me to interpret their ideas.  When I grade labs, I feel like an English teacher and a physics teacher.  Sometimes I struggle philosophically with the fact that I am teaching these kids physics in English ... wouldn't it be more beneficial for them to learn in Arabic? ... wouldn't they learn more of the physics?  Some of them would be getting an A+ in my class if the class were taught in Arabic (they have a high level of intuition for physics and math), but they aren't doing as well because they struggle with the English.  This is hard for me.  It doesn't seem fair.  But another teacher pointed out to me that many of these students are at King's because they want to go to college in the United States and the only way they'll succeed there is if they have the ability to take classes in English.

2. Religion permeates daily academic life here.  Many of my students write the first line of the Koran at the top of any quiz or test they take in my class.  It's as if giving the work to God or asking God to be with them during the test.

3. Because I teach at the King's school, many of my students are incredibly privileged.  Frankly, some of them are quite spoiled.  Of this group, some of them are still nice, polite and friendly young men and women.  But even so, it's very interesting to observe the effects of coming from such extraordinarily wealthy and privileged worlds.  I had a swimmer on the swim team who came into practice one day and said, "Ms., I don't have my swim suit, BUT I have a great excuse."  He was speaking very politely and earnestly to me.  He then proceeded to tell me that his parents were out of town, that his maid had run away and so no one had put his bathing suit into the dryer that morning.  He finished his breathless story and looked up at me, wide-eyed, quite sure in the validity of his predicament.  I almost laughed.  Instead, I said, "[insert young student's name], why didn't you put the bathing suit in the dryer yourself?"  The expression on his face at that moment did cause me to laugh.  He looked so confused, not in a defensive or rude way, but literally the idea to dry the suit himself had not occurred to him. 

4. I've observed differences between my own mentality and that of my students based on the fact that I grew up in a representative democracy and they've grown up in a monarchy.  I was on duty during study hall one evening and heard a loud and anguished sound come from a girl's room.  I rushed in and saw that she was quite upset over some distorted photographs of the King that had been posted on facebook by a Syrian.  She was extremely agitated and horrified and also strangely fascinated by the idea that someone was capable of such an act.  The pictures made me uncomfortable too, partly because the King is a good man and it seemed extremely disrespectful, and also because I'd not yet seen any evidence of political dissidence here.  It made me realize how I am so used to seeing caricatures of American politicians and important figures, but already, here, I've been conditioned to find it uncomfortable and wrong.

5. The political turmoil of the area is present in the daily life of my classroom, even/only as background noise.  The dichotomy of such large-scale issues functioning as daily background noise to my students' lives is an oddity in itself and contrasts with the way that I was privileged to live in the US and in my own high school career.  One of my students has not seen his parents in a year because they live in Gaza and he's not allowed to go back.  He's 16 years old and he's already making huge sacrifices for his future.  One of my students went home to Syria for the Eid holiday and then missed almost a week of my class because he couldn't get back across the border.  When he finally returned, his mom emailed me in a panic, saying they hadn't been in communication because the Internet kept being disconnected there and also apologizing for her son's missing assignments which had been left in Syria by mistake and which she couldn't bring to him "until the border situation hopefully cools down."

I feel lucky to be living in this region during such interesting times.  This week we had a visit from US Ambassador to Jordan, Stuart Jones.  He gave an interesting speech and answered the students' questions much more frankly than General Franks had.  He shed some interesting light on the relationship between the US and Jordanian's nuclear development and, I think, cleared up some of the student's misconceptions.  The only disappointing response came after a question about why the US cut funding to UNESCO after UNESCO admitted Palestine as a member state.  During his speech, Ambassador Jones had adamantly and repeatedly stated that the United States wanted Palestine to have statehood.  He said that the United States wanted Palestine and Israel to reach a peace agreement themselves, outside of the UN, which is reasonable, but within my brain's capacity to reason, I am not able to understand why this statement necessitates UNESCO funding cuts.  I think perhaps he forgot to mention the strong financial and political influence of Jewish lobbyists in US policy making. 

I had my 23rd birthday and my first international Thanksgiving this week.  The birthday was pretty uneventful, though low-key was nice this year.  What really made an impression on me on this birthday was the stark difference between where I was one year ago and where I am now.  I mean that metaphorically and literally.  I think back to the Me of one year ago, and I just want to laugh at the idea of her seeing the current Me and where she is and what she's doing and what she's done in a year.  I doubt many years of my life will be full of this much change, but it is EXCITING that such a magnitude of change in one year is possible.  I wouldn't even describe where I am now as "better" than where I was one year ago.  It's just so incredibly different and unexpected from what I imagined was possible.  Who knows where I'll be one year from now.  Or two, or three.

Thanksgiving was a nice celebratory potluck dinner with the whole faculty, and it was wonderful.  There were plenty of international foods available but also turkey and stuffing and sweet potatoes and everything.  The cranberry sauce made it feel like Thanksgiving to me!

Saturday, November 12, 2011

Istanbul Sojourn, Home to Jordan

As the plane landed on Jordanian soil, I was struck by the difference in my emotions from the last time I experienced such a touch down.  I lacked the jittery expectancy of my beginnings in Jordan, but I had gained this incredible sense of homecoming, of familial fondness for the surge of taxi drivers outside the airport all shouting and asking if we needed a ride, letting "King's Academy" roll around on their tongues several times just to hear the sound of it, talking wildly amongst themselves and then a good five minutes later finally deciding upon the taxi driver who would deliver us to our destination, the initial taxi driver we'd asked.  I actually missed the ridiculous inefficiency!  I am glad to be back.

I still feel inordinately lucky to be able to travel to places like Istanbul for vacationing.  I wasn't able to continue updating the blog during the trip because my computer battery went dead, and the wall outlets were non-compatible with either a Jordanian or a US plug.  So now I have an overload of pictures to share, and hopefully I'll remember details about what we did each day.  On Sunday, the third day, we took a ferry out across the bay to a section of Istanbul called Kadikoy and spent the day there walking around and sitting at various cafes and restaurants with the staple of Turkish tea at each stop.  Kadikoy is right on the water, a port, and also much quieter and more relaxed than Istanbul which made for a nice change of pace.

 First we stopped in a mosque and I got pooped on by a pigeon.  Since I was in a mosque and pigeons are considered holy to Muslims, I believe it was a sign of very divine good luck.  Yep.

The standard Turkish tea served EVERYWHERE.  Delicious.

I saw many vendors selling tickets to play the following game: they'd place three cans in a triangle, two cans in back just a little bit wider than the width of the ball and one can in front.  I watched countless people attempt to knock down all three balls with one kick and it's surprisingly much more difficult than it looks.  Hence, the business plan, I guess.

On Monday, I wasn't feeling well in the morning.  I hadn't realized how sterile the desert is until encountering the much dirtier and more populated Istanbul, but it's the first time I've been sick since I crossed the Atlantic.  I rested and read that morning but ventured out for food at some point during the day.  As I was walking along by myself in a region of the city I wasn't yet familiar with, I stumbled upon what looked like a huge protest.  I'd never seen so many people before.  I couldn't understand what they were saying but they were shouting one phrase in unison and there were men with machine guns monitoring the situation.  I was certainly nervous, and immediately walked in the opposite direction as I'd been instructed to do by Jordanians.  Later, while talking to an Australian girl at the hostel who'd asked one of the policemen about the "protest," she informed me that the crowd had congregated due to the filming of a Ben Affleck film in Istanbul.  Figures!  Goes to show I shouldn't jump to stereotype-based assumptions every time I see a crowd of people in a country near the Middle East. 

The next day, Tuesday, we walked around some of the poorer sections of Istanbul as well as some of the spice markets and spent the evenings scoping out the club and bar scene in Istanbul, which was lively and full of Turkish dancing and music.  Wednesday was perhaps my favorite day, which we spent at a Turkish bath and then at Hagia Sofia.  The Turkish bath was comical and wonderful and bizarre; outside the bathes, sat a very young woman missing her front teeth and surrounded by baby kittens.  She welcomed us inside with the typical "Come in, Lady," (everyone in Turkey refers to women they don't know as "Lady."  I think they think it is polite like "Ma'am," but it gets sort of inconspicuously irksome after a little while.)  We're hustled inside and commanded around with one-word phrases by several brusque Turkishmen and women, mostly commands, in English.  In the dressing room we're given tablecloth-like coverings and I wear huge pink plastic shoes (5 sizes too big).  Then, Katie and I are led to the women's wing and Darion and John to the men's wing of the bath.  Katie and I are led through tunnels of tile and stone to a bathing room with three fountains and a stone-domed ceiling with holes in the top letting in blue and yellow light.  One large tile on the wall has the elegant patterns of red, turquoise and royal blue that are common in the city and decorate the old Ottoman palace.  Here we are handed pink and purple plastic containers and told to "Pour" and then are left alone.  For about 30 minutes we are left there pouring hot water on ourselves and it's soothing and cleansing though I wonder if we've been forgotten.  Finally, a woman leads me alone out of the domed room and into another tiled room with just a slab of marble in the center.  She orders me quite scornfully to remove my bra and underwear as if appalled I would appear in her presence in anything more than nothing.  She is old and beautiful and rough and quite funny in her aggressive motherlyness.  She knew the following words in English, "Turn," "Relax," and "Lay Down," and she used them all abruptly and defiantly, although I wasn't put off by it.  The Turkish bath was therapeutic though incredibly rough and businesslike; I was somewhat fearful for my more sensitive areas although I loved getting my hair washed as well as the leg and arm massage.  She had this very interesting technique of swinging a white T-shirt filled with soap so that it blew up like a balloon and then swinging it all over my body.  After the massage/bathing, we are given another dry tablecloth and some Turkish tea.  

Hagia Sofia, a former Orthodox Christian basilica, later a mosque, and now a museum, was one of the most beautiful places I've ever seen.  I was captivated by the mixture of Christian and Muslim symbols in one place, but I'll let the pictures speak for themselves, though, of course, they can never do full justice.  When I finished looking around inside, I sat on the back steps of the Hagia Sofia and people-watched.  I saw a woman sitting beside me in full burqa and I couldn't even see her eyes because she was wearing Ray Bans with red rims.  She was playing on her iPhone.  She finally looked up and saw me staring and smiled at me.  I could tell she smiled by the way the fabric moved, as if her mouth was curving upward underneath the black cloth. 

On Thursday, we went to the Modern art museum in Istanbul which was one of the coolest art museums I've ever seen.  There's no way to communicate how original and interactive and experimental it was but I took pictures specifically here and there I'll send along via emails.  The art was set up in this cool old warehouse with tin sheets as room dividers.  On the last day, we went shopping in the Grand Bazaar, though I was simply overwhelmed by the maze-like shops and persistent shop-owners.  I spent much of my time fielding questions about my nationality from curious shop-owners.  It was probably the hat I was wearing, but many thought I was French.  I didn't buy anything, but I did get a beautiful free necklace from one young man who said his father told him "Never to let a beautiful woman leave without a gift."  How many times a day he pulls that line, I do not know, but I appreciated the compliment and the gift of a necklace strung with the Turkish evil eye to ward off evil and bad luck. 

A makeshift carnival toy in one of the poorer sections of Istanbul.

Hagia Sofia.

The Virgin and baby Jesus framed by the Arabic script for "Allah" and the Prophet "Mohamed."

Otherworldly rays of light coming in one of the windows.

From above.

Some of the beautiful, disappearing artwork.

"The only way is Islam," in Turkish, from 1977.

Inside the art museum.

Monday, November 7, 2011

The Sultanahmet, Old Istanbul

During our second day in Istanbul, we saw three of the major sites in Sultanahmet, which is the old part of the city.  We were able to see the Blue Mosque, the Basilica Cistern and the Tokpaki Palace where the Ottoman sultans lived for more than 400 years. At the Tokpaki Palace, we saw some amazing artifacts including Moses's staff, David's sword, the arm of John the Baptist and Mohamed's beard.  The rooms were haunting and ornate and we were not allowed to take pictures.  A muezzin constantly recited verses from the Quran and his voice echoed through the elaborately decorated and vast chambers. 

Turkish Delight.

Beautiful spices in the market.

Lining the walkways to Tokpaki palace were all sorts of scattered old artifacts, as if there were so many that it wasn't a big deal to leave a view forgotten and crumbling along the edges of the castle.  There's also a lot of stray cats in Istanbul.

The palace entrance.

A typically extravagant room in the palace.

From the palace, we can see the skyscrapers and boats of new Istanbul.  What an incredible contrast.

The Blue Mosque.

Inside the Blue Mosque.  I had to cover my head with my scarf before entering, and men and women had to take off shoes.

The Basilica Cistern consists of hundreds of cisterns beneath the city of Istanbul.  One of the coolest things I've ever seen.

There are two giant Medusa heads in the cistern.  No one knows exactly why one head is placed upside down and the other is placed on its side.

The city at night.  The lighted bridge connects Asian Istanbul to European Istanbul.

Mosques at night.

Friday, November 4, 2011

Eid al-Adha Holiday Begins!

We have a week off from school due to the Eid al-Adha holiday, or 3otla, the second of the two Eid festivals which commemorates Abraham's willingness to sacrifice his son, Ishmael (yes, different from the Bible where Abraham was willing to sacrifice his son, Isaac).  I am currently writing from a hostel in Istanbul, Turkey!  I'm spending 8 days here with three other teachers: Darion, John and Katie.  I feel so incredibly lucky to be able to travel like this and see one of the most exquisite cities in the world.  The place is leaking with history and remnants of the great Ottoman empire as well as being incredibly sleek and metropolitan.  Immediately I was struck by the mixture of European and Middle Eastern cultures here in this city.  It is the most beautiful blending.  And I've only been here for one day.  This morning, we all woke up at 3am and caught a flight out of Queen Alia International Airport near Madaba.  The flight was great; European airlines have the best food and I met a couple sitting next to me originally from Charlotte, NC!  We got to Turkey, exhausted, but ready to see the city!  We rode the metro around and found the hostel, hung out there for a couple hours, made a German friend and then went touring for hours into the night.  You'll see what our touring looked like from the pictures below.  The city is bustling and lively and lovely.  The city is also HUGE.  I'm already feeling as if I'll need weeks to explore it all properly.  I just got back from a delicious and beautiful dinner and I'm off to bed soon.  Tomorrow will be some more fun and exploration!

The flight from Jordan to Turkey, floating on clouds.

This picture is cool because you can see the reflection of the airplane against the clouds and a rainbow circle around the shadow.

Made it to the hostel!  Darion learns Turkish, John tries not to fall asleep.

We ate some delicious shawarma on the side of the road...

...and some fresh-squeezed pomegranate and orange juice!

The fish market.

 Some fishermen on the bridge, and one of the many stunning mosques in the background.

Graffiti framing a view of the bay and a mosque in the distance.

We went shopping in the Grande Bazaar and had our first Turkish coffee in this little place.

A tower right beside our hostel.

A particularly lively street in Istanbul at night.

I also have some videos that I'll try to upload tomorrow if I have enough battery.  Another country, another wall outlet.

Wednesday, November 2, 2011

UNESCO Admits Palestine as Member State

 UNESCO Admits Palestine as Member State

The United States was one of the 14 dissenting votes.  After UNESCO admitted Palestine as a UNESCO member state, the United States cancelled all funding to UNESCO.  This funding constituted about 20% of UNESCO's total funding.

Tuesday, November 1, 2011

7ooriya Goes to Aqaba

The big news is that I spent the last weekend in Aqaba, in the Southernmost part of Jordan.  I know I promised to stay away from there a couple weeks ago when the Embassy notices came out, but when you hear what I got to do, you'll understand it was worth the risk!  I went as a chaperone for a marine biology field trip; there were about 10 students and 3 teachers.  We all got to stay in the Tala Bay apartments, apartments owned by the King and used to keep all the foreign dignitaries and other important people who come to visit him.  We also got to use one of the King's boats and go snorkeling in the coral reefs of Aqaba!

A couple years ago, the King sunk a huge ship off the coast for increased marine life habitation.  Snorkeling over this giant ghostly ship was dreamlike.  Schools of fish swam everywhere.  The mast stretched for meters and meters and I swam like a 7ooriya--Arabic for "mermaid"--along the entire length of that massive ship all the way to the tip and then there was only the expanse of empty ocean.  We spent one day on the water conducting lab experiments, measuring dissolved oxygen, salinity, temperature, ect., swimming and cruising around with the Royal boat crew.  The next day we also visited the Aqaba Marine Research Station and spoke with the Director about ecological concerns on the bay and surrounding aquatic regions.  This trip is the precursor to a larger project being organized at the school where a Jordanian student at King's will be paired with an Israeli student from Israel to come up with proposals for ecological efforts on the bay.  The two lands share the bay and are within sight of each other, although no one is allowed to cross.  While we were in Aqaba, we could wave to the Israeli Marine Station across the water.  There's even been controversy about this project among the science faculty, which is probably 2/3 Jordanian, 1/3 expats. The controversy isn't split directly along nationality lines, but there are some Jordanians who are verbally against the project because it involves even using the word "Israel." 

Eilat, Palestine right across the bay.

Beautiful views from the boat.

Where we stayed!

I saw one of these little "lipstick" fish in the sea.

A lion fish.

The white dots are the eyes!

Nemo plays.

An eel.

I found a seahorse friend.

Women in burqa and hijab on the beach.

We were eating at McDonalds next to a major road, and a camel walked by.

So naturally, I had to ride it.

One of my favorite moments: we later see my friend with the camel talking on his cell phone.

Some beautiful land on the drive home.

A stunning sunset.